Schiesser Lexicon - Cotton
COTTON The thread consists of:
History
Cotton was already known in Asia for about 4000 years (Egypt). It reached Europe in the 13th century AD through Spain, and for the first time in Germany in the 14th century. Large financial and, as a result, social revolutions, took place. Through the spinning machine in 1768 and through the invention of the mechanical loom in 1787, cotton processing experienced an upswing.
Growth Requirements
Cotton is a bushy plant from 0.7 to 1.7m in height. It flourishes best on sandy, limy soil and in a warm, humid climate (sub-tropical). Buds can be seen two months after sowing. The white, yellow or red flowers come out of these, developing into three to five times, walnut-sized capsules with three to eight kernels. The usable cotton threads are located in the kernels. 
Harvest
Harvest takes 80 to 100 days in three to five cull periods. Harvesting is done either by hand or with machines. Harvest amount and thread quality totally depend on the weather.
Thread Extraction
The cotton threads are separated forcibly from the kernels with gins (gutting machines). On average 100kg raw cotton yield 70 kg kernels and 30 kg threads. Despite the gutting, short threads still hanging on the kernels are extracted by special gins. They come as linters to the market and are the raw material for the manufacturing of acetate, etc.
Main crop growing countries
China
USA
Mid-Asia (ex-USSR)
India
Pakistan
Brazil
Turkey
Egypt
Australia
Greece
Together these countries product about 3/4 of the world's cotton harvest.
Three international standards where created for the description of the various cotton types. These are:
USA cotton
Indian cotton
Egyptian cotton
The cotton from the remaining countries are assigned to one of the 3 groups.
Types
More thn 10 types are known through crossbreeding.
The following grouping was established:
- Cotton with a long staple, higher staple length, bigger fineness and satin sheen. Example: Sea Island (USA)
- Cotton with uniform staple. Example: Uplands (USA)
- Cotton with short staple, rough and minor. Example: East Indian
Trading Types
1. USA /Sea-lsland (Georgia) is the most priceless. Uplands is smoothest and provides the main quantity.
2. Egypt I Mako 1st yellowish. All types come as Sakellaridis and Ashmouny as well as the white, rigid Karnak.
3. East Indian / Oomra, Bengal, Tinnevelly, Broach (short-stapled, minor, rough and inpure)
4. South-American I Good middle type e.g. from Pernambuco in Brazil, from Peru, Mexico, Puerto Rico and Santo Domingo.
5. Mid-Asian / Very versatile. Short and middle stapled
6. European I e.g. from Motril (Spain) and lzmir (Turkey).
Thread Characteristics I –Properties
Thread length is between 10 and 55 mm.
From 36 mm long-stapled cotton
20 to 35 mm medium-stapled cotton
Up to 20 mm short-stapled cotton
Below 10 mm Linters
The thread profile during growth is circular, however reniform when mature. The cell sap degenerates during maturation and the threads contract. The microscopic image of the thread axis shows a wound, corkscrew-type cuff.
approx. 90% cellulose
approx. 7% water
approx. 3 % wax, fur, protein, ash
In a natural state cotton is mostly gray-white, yellowish to brownish or reddish. The fineness, i.e. the thickness of the threads ranges from 12 to 18 microns (1 micron = 1/1000 mm). The longest threads are nearly always the finest threads.
Sheen increases with fineness and the whorls of the cotton threads. The durability is high and increases more in a wet state.
Cotton is the natural fiber with the highest abrasion resistance and with a very good sealing behaviour. Cotton is boil-proof and possesses a high absorbability. This affects high sweat absorbance and long dry times. In a wet state cotton is attacked by light, i.e. it yellows. Cotton can be ironed at relative high temperatures (180 to 200 degrees Celsius).
Cotton Properties:
Heat-resistant, boil-proof, soft, pliant, fine, absorbant, does not charge electrostatically, permeable to air, hygienic, bacteria are killed through heat when washing and ironing, comfortable on the skin, no scratches, can absorb body moisture well, no crackling, doesn't stick on the skin or textiles, no heat buildup results.
Mako-Cotton
Mako-cotton is a superior grade of cotton. It is very clear, capillary and soft. Because of the immense length it is very good to yarn. The specific of Mako cotton is the breaking strength.
Pima-Cotton
Pima cotton differs from other cotton species by its hair length and thickness. Pima cotton is handpicked. The degree and the extra long fibers to make the best Pima cotton variety. It is soft and fine and has a gloss, which she called "silk of South America" owes.
