Twill Weave (Denim Binding)

In the twill weave, the way the threads cross already creates a visible effect: the crosswise weft thread passes over at least two warp threads. This so-called float is offset by at least one thread in the next weft row – producing the typical diagonal effect with ridges running at an angle. The fabric feels firm and substantial.

Three types of twill

In weft twill the weft threads determine the fabric surface, in warp twill the warp threads shape the look, and double twill shows the same face on both sides. Compared with the plain weave at the same settings, the interlacing is looser – so the fabric drapes more loosely and feels softer.

Related terms

Croisé finette: cotton with fine, firmly twisted warp yarns and coarse, loose weft yarns – smooth face, brushed reverse. Herringbone: the twill ridge changes direction, creating a zigzag pattern. Gabardine: a steep twill ridge, a dense warp setting with looser weft threads.

Learn more about woven fabric in our Underwear Glossary.