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Spun yarn is created by twisting individual fibres together – possible with all known raw materials. Spinning staple fibres involves cleaning or washing where needed (wool, for example), carding (laying the fibres parallel), drawing out to the desired yarn count and the actual spinning, i.e. twisting.
The decisive factors are the quality and type of raw material, the length of the fibres (the longer, the more even and durable the yarn), their fineness (the finer, the more even, lighter, denser and smoother) and the twist: a low, loose twist gives softer, more voluminous and more absorbent yarns that tear more easily – and vice versa.
Yarn fineness is stated either in a length-based or a weight-based system:
Nm (metric number): length in metres per 1 gram – Nm 55 means 55 metres per gram.
den (denier): weight in grams at a fixed length of 9,000 m – 20 den is 20 grams per 9,000 metres.
tex: the decimal weight system based on 1,000 m – 20 tex is 20 grams per 1,000 metres.
dtex (decitex): one tenth of tex, used for man-made filament yarns and staple fibres – 20 dtex is 20 grams per 10,000 metres.
Learn more about yarn in our Underwear Glossary.