Schiesser Lexicon - Surface Formation - Laces & Applications

LACES AND APPLICATIONS

Lace developed from knitting, as shown in ancient references. The origin of the lace is Italy, around 1500. The lace was a really artistic, luxury article manufactured by hand exclusively for the nobility. In the 16th century, a differentiation was made between hande-made and hand-tatted laces. Descriptions of the Venetian or Brussels laces are related with the locations and with the specific patterns and manufacturing types. In the 19th century, mechanical lace manufacturing developed. The Englishman Leavers invented the Bobinet lace machine. This lace is still called Leaver lace. The laces mostly used nowadays, with different quality levels and prices, come from double rib looms. They fall in the category of warp-weft machines. Nowadays, a modern lace machine can produce so much lace in 10 minutes what a woman could have produced in her whole life.

A new generation of lace machines has differentiated works. They are equipped with electronic pattern control. In the 80s, the production of elastic laces, Jacquardtronic laces, began. In this process, experts could determine whether it is a wound or knitted lace.

The Comfortronic lace with a high amount of cotton was development. In Textronic laces, the filigree backs and the rich motif designs are protected. Based on the ”Textronic process”, high quality laces are manufactured in all parts of the world. Lace centres in France (web laces), Switzerland, Austrain Vorarlberg (knitted laces) and in Germany (raschel laces) have developed.

Applications and Incrustations

Applications means that the material parts, embroideries or laces are stuck or knitted on the basic material. The cut selvedges are mostly hidden through ornamental seams. The motif is applied. Even in Incrustations , laces or embroideries are knitted on the material. Afterwards, or concurrently, the material's lace edge is accordingly cut out. The less symmetric the lace is, the more complex is the cutting.

Price and Quality Differences
Lace price and quality differences depend on
- the raw material
- the thread
- the knitted density
- the cutout border
- the processing
- the stability and simultaneous softness
- the size of the lace used

The customer mostly rates laces on visual appearance, fineness, softness and wearing sensitivity.
Generally, lace quality can be recognized by the following:
The more cutouts, the more finer and softer - therefore the lace is of higher quality

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